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Asbestos in make-up Hema? “Not true, we are Hema and do not take any risks”

Research by current affairs program EenVandaag from 2019 has revealed asbestos in make-up products from the Douglas and Hema perfumery. Hema and Douglas had the cosmetics tested themselves and denied that their products contain the dangerous mineral.

Commissioned by EenVandaag and the Asbestos and Fibers Expertise Center, various brands of cosmetics were tested at the Nomacon asbestos laboratory in Vianen. The reason for this was the investigation by the Dutch Food and Consumer Product Safety Authority and the Human Environment and Transport Inspectorate into asbestos in make-up from 2018. At that time, low concentrations of the substance were found in two products of the Claire’s brand.

EenVandaag’s research showed that the two cosmetic products – My Cheek Palette Blush (Douglas) and B.A.E. loose powder foundation 2nd skin (Hema) – see traces of asbestos. Those asbestos fibers can be released when using the face powders. After the positive test, the products were tested again in the labs of the Dutch SGS Search and Scientific Analytical Institute in the United States, “so as not to go ice overnight”.

Own research

The presence of asbestos was demonstrated in all three analyzes. Confronted with the results, both Hema and Douglas removed the products from the shelves and commissioned their own research. Hema did this at TNO and Wesseling in Germany, Douglas only at the latter. Both institutes did not find any asbestos in the cosmetics, after which the make-up went back into the store.

ā€œWhen EenVandaag published the results a year ago, we immediately removed the products from the stores,ā€ says Hema spokesperson Frederike van Urk, who says he has literally been awake about it. The company immediately had its own analyzes carried out. “Products like this are constantly under a magnifying glass and are constantly being tested.” TNO, NVWA and RIVM were brought in.

‘No risk’

ā€œHema does not take any risks,ā€ says Van Urk, clearly agitated. “Products like this put people on their faces, do you really think we put something on the shelves that could make people sick?” Our own research therefore focused not only on the aforementioned cosmetics, but also on all raw materials. TNO’s analysis did not reveal any asbestos.

When asked, experts say that the various research methods used can explain the different outcomes. It is also possible that the asbestos – which occurs in six different forms in nature – was “unevenly” in the product. Some samples offered would therefore contain traces of the mineral and others would not.

Not the right equipment

Van Urk has a different lecture and says that EenVandaag’s research was not conclusive. TNO’s would be. ā€œThe study has three phases,ā€ she says. “The lab commissioned by EenVandaag did not get further than two and does not have the right equipment to tell the difference between the tiny asbestos and talc particles.” Convinced of the TNO outcome, the foundation went on sale again.

Between Hema and EenVandaag arose a tug of war about the broadcast of the news item, whereby the broadcast ended up on the shelf twice, Van Urk claims. “We haven’t heard anything for months until July, when they said they wanted to broadcast it anyway.” Monday, both parties were in court. “We may not be able to stop the broadcast, but our lawyers are hard at work.”

‘Small chance’

“Make-up manufacturers must ensure that they market cosmetics without asbestos,” says Minister of Medical Care, Tamara van Ark. “Asbestos is prohibited by law.” Toxicologist Majorie van Duursen, from the University of Utrecht, stated that the risk of asbestos in make-up “is small, but exposure should be avoided”. Lung cancer due to inhalation of asbestos in make-up, Van Duursen considers “unlikely”.

After the study in 2018, the RIVM also found “a small chance” of health damage, albeit in the long term. EenVandaag cites authoritative American professor Arthur Frank, an expert in the field of asbestos diseases, as saying that it can take 40 to 50 years before exposure to loose asbestos fibers leads to cancer. “A small chance, but certainly an opportunity.”

The editors of EenVandaag say they do not respond for the 18.15 broadcast on NPO1. They may respond later. Perfumery Douglas was not yet available to comment on the findings.

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